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Tires
The difference is typically in the number of plies and the load rating (how much weight the tire can carry). Did it come originally with P tires? (sticker on door jamb might say) Often half ton trucks do come with P tires from the factory.
LT tires cost more, have more plies for a higher load range, allow higher max air pressure, have a higher max load carrying capacity and are a bit more rugged. They also weigh more, get a bit worse mileage, and run hotter which shortens tread life.
If you're within weight carrying capacity and don't drive much on very rough roads I'd say a P tire would be fine.
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Tires
Glad to help, maybe those two years running a tire store weren't a complete waste.
Yesterday I replaced the P tires on my Tacoma with 6-ply LTs, mostly because 20% of the mileage is driven on gravel roads and these are a bit more rugged. I'm hoping they cut down on the number of flats I get (usually 3-4 per year).
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We've been living here for eight years and all our vehicles have had lots of flats, brand of tire or price paid really doesn't seem to matter. We've had Firestone, Bridgestone, Toyo, Michelin, Pirelli, Goodyear, BF Goodrich and Dunlop and assorted off brands. In my tire days some designs did seem to be more prone to flats. The gravel road takes it's toll too, the best tires never get more than 30k miles.
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Not sure about the weather where you are but generally highway tread is fine, are they all season? Here we buy from Les Schwab and they have free flat repair and rotations for life. Their road hazard is great too. Not sure how Sam's Club works, but often those warranties are something like free replacement for the first 50% of tread life and prorated if less. At 2/32 the tire is worn out, if it rains a lot there I'd be replacing at 3 or 4/32.
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The specs never tell the whole story but they seem OK. The manufacturers can be really skunky. For example I've seen tires with "steel belts" where the belts are about 1" wide running down the center of the tire, leaving 3-4" on either side unprotected.
If you were running LT tires before you'll want to go back to the P pressures that are closer to what's on your door jamb sticker. LT tires generally need higher pressure for equivalent load capacity vs. P tires.
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Quote:
The Nov. Consumer Reports has a piece on tires for light trucks. They don't test every brand and size, but they repeat the point that you can basically have ONE of fuel economy, long tread life, low noise, comfort, or good traction for dry or wet or snow or ice.
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Like many Consumer Reports articles this isn't quite the entire story. Fuel economy, long tread life, low noise and comfort aren't mutually exclusive. A tire with a rib design, hard rubber tread layer, and flexible sidewalls can be very quiet, deliver good fuel economy, long tread life, and give excellent ride comfort. So that's just not true.
But wet/dry/snow traction are a different story, those attributes are always a compromise.
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Although I no longer subscribe to CR it's interesting reading when a free copy is found. But sometimes you have to wonder what they're thinking.
Like the test they did between dino and synthetic oils. I thought everyone knew that a large portion of engine wear occurs during cold engine starts. So how did CR conduct the test? In taxis that ran 24 hours/day without any cold starts. Not very useful results for the real world.
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My experience with synthetics is based on personal experience. I've rebuilt or had the heads off of probably a dozen automotive engines in my life, several that I owned since new. Those that ran synthetics were always sparkling clean inside with virtually no visible sign of wear on cam lobes or lifters. Those that ran dino oil were always covered with brown, carmelized coating and there was always visible wear on cams and lifters. And the oil was changed at 3k miles on all.
Now you might ask why the engines needed work. Well, high turbo boost levels can be a bit hard on head gaskets
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